Since I got a new table saw, I figured I should add a few changes to it that I would like. I was doing some browsing online for a contractor saw cabinet/mobile base and found lots of interesting designs. I found one on Lumberjocks that really caught my eye. You can check out the original here . He basically made a plywood cabinet set on top of a torsion box with a mobile base. It is a simple design with all of the elements I am looking for.
I plan on building a modern vanity with a waterfall edge in the future. To build this vanity I need to be able to have 45 degree beveled corners with a full length spline. I have never tried this joint so I figured the main cabinet on this saw base would be a good opportunity to try something new
You can use different materials for the cabinet and base. I decided to use a combination of 3/4″ melamine panels, pine, and plywood because I already had these on hand.
Step 1. Measure upper saw cabinet height and width. Also measure the current height of your saw.
Step 2. Rip melamine panel to proper height. Mine ended up being 18″
Step 3. Cut MDF panels to the width of the sides of your saw. Mine ended up being 16.5″ and 19.75″.
Step 4. Cut 45 degree bevel along the vertical edges of all 4 panels.
Step 5. I have a right tilting saw so I had to move my rip fence to the left side of my blade. You want to keep your blade beveled at 45 deg. Adjust the rip fence so the blade will cut into the work piece about 2/3 back from the pointed bevel edge. The height of your blade should cut into the wood about 1/4″.
Step 6. Using the set up on step 5, make a pass on all of the beveled edges creating a full length groove on beveled edge. If you have a full kerf blade and some 1/8″ plywood you only need one pass. I have thin kerf blades and 1/8 plywood so I needed to widen my groove slightly. The fence only needs to be moved a small amount and another pass was made on all of the pieces. I tested the width of the groove with my 1/8″ plywood and it had a good fit.
Step 7. Measure the depth of the groove you cut and multiply by ~1.8. You don’t need an exact fit which would be multiplying the depth by 2 because it would be difficult to clamp the joint together once glue was added. Cutting it a bit narrower than full width gives you some wiggle room.
Step 8. Place all of the plywood splines into their slots and test fit all 4 sides. Everything seemed to fit.
Step 9. Glue. You need a fair amount of clamps for this step. I glued one corner and let it dry. Later that day I did the second corner. To finish the 3rd and 4th corners I had to buy some more clamps. The first two corners you only need 4 clamps, preferably more. But for the last two corners you will need 6 clamps because you have to clamp to joints at once.
What I learned
- How to create beveled corners with a full length spline.
- Lots of clamps make the aforementioned joint come together. 4 clamps really isn’t ideal for each corner. More clamps would have closed everything up perfectly. It appears that I have good adhesion on the corners, but they aren’t perfect.
- My new saw made this first step go fairly quickly.